For New Years this year we went to Canmore to visit with Colin and Jo. Canmore is the ice climbing capital of North America. The drive out of the Nelson area was terrible, slushy, snowy, and foggy conditions. For those of you not accustom to winter driving in the Kootenays, this is the norm. Once we got to the Rocky Mountain Trench things cleared up and it was smooth sailing all the way to Canmore. That night we hung around their place and got ready for the next few days. The following is an account of the daily ice climbing adventures that I had and our wild New Years Eve.
Day OneThe first day of climbing was our biggest day. We got up fairly early fuelled up on caffeine and
sugar and headed into Banff, so that I could rent some ice axes and boots. After that we drove the five minutes to the base of Cascade Mountain. On

previous trips Colin and I climbed the predominant icefall, aptly named, Cascade and the one to the lookers left, called Rougans. This year we were on a mission to climb “The Urs Hole”. This climb has been on my to-do list for years but avalanche conditions had prevented us from doing it.

As usual it was an ordeal trying to keep up with Colin as he races to the base of the climb. I don’t think he takes into account the fact that I’m a good foot shorter than him when he is setting the approach pace. After 15 or so minutes we were putting on the crampons and harnesses and roping in. The first part of the climb consisted of multiple short ice pitches and caves tucked in the bottom of a tight canyon that seemed to have walls that went up forever. After about an hour and a half we reached the upper portion of the climb. Here there was a 30

meter waterfall that extended up to a tight area which was usually the end of the climb. Due to usual temperatures in the Rockies this year, ice has formed in places where it usually wouldn’t so with this in mind (I’m assuming) Colin pressed on and we discovered a waterfall that he hadn’t seen before, so of course we climbed it.
Day Two
The second day we had planned to do a full on mixed climb on the outskirts of the Rockies, but unfortunately the temperature had risen to a point that made the climb too unsafe. Instead we went to “The Grotto”, an area ideal for sport ice and mixed climbing. The climbing area is east of Canmore and is located behind a large mine. The approach takes ten minutes passes some pictographs along the way. For that reason many tourists were also at the climbing area. We did a few short pitch climbs and called it a day, it was New Years Eve after all.
New Years EveFor New Years, Tash, Nathan, Colin, Jo, and I went out for dinner

at a flat bread pizza place down the street from their place. I was nervous about bringing Nathan to this fancy restaurant but it worked out well because there was an imitation wood fire stove, similar to the real one that was cooking our pizzas, for the children to play with. Nate played through dinner and we had a great time. Our plan for later on was to go ice skating at the local outdoor rink and watch the fireworks that were put on by the city, but Nate fell asleep and we lost our motivation. We watch TV and talked until about 12:30 AM at that point we went to bed.
Unbelievable, simply
unbelievable, we must be getting old.